Recall is a vital skill for all dogs, allowing them freedom to express natural doggy behaviour and use up energy, whilst keeping them safe.
First choose your method of recall. You can use a training word and/or a whistle. I would recommend becoming proficient with both for many practical reasons.
Word recall.
The first step is to introduce a word you want to use for the action of returning to you.
Pick a word or phrase that can be kept light and fun, it can be anything, ‘sweeties’ for example. Obviously, you can pick something more traditional, but don't expect your dog to just return when you say a word like “come or here”. That would be like someone saying something in a language you don't understand and expecting you to know what they mean. Your dog will need positive association to the word relating to the action of returning to you.
To set yourself and your dog up for success, start training at home, in small steps of positive association to the word, when there are the minimal distractions, therefore maximum learning opportunity.
Start by using your phrase when they are already close to you and treat. Treating needs to be immediate so the dog links the word to receiving a treat, just a few seconds delay could lose that association for your dog.
Practice randomly throughout the day, around your house, and your garden if you have one, increasing distances between yourself and your dog.
In the beginning it may be helpful to wear a treat pouch around the house, as long as they don’t constantly follow you ever hopeful! Or have pots strategically placed around the home ready for use.
You want to make it very clear to them, that coming back to you will ALWAYS be beneficial.
When you are confident your dog has a positive understanding of your chosen training word you can also start capturing times when your dog is naturally coming towards you, this builds positive learning to the word and related action. For example:
When they come to greet you on your return to the home, Dinner time if they are some distance away or out of the room, When you introduce enrichment, Play times, such as playing fetch, as they're running back with their fetch toy,
As they approach you, say your recall word and offer a treat.
Now is the opportunity to start to include a collar touch and release command too, this is an important part of training to prevent a ‘fly by’ dog, who snatches a treat and immediately runs away.
The collar touch teaches them to accept being held in place and the release command lets them know when they are free to go again.
When you feel your dog is ready, you can begin to test this new skill. Set up a situation with one person engaging your dog, either by playing with them or doing some different training. Ask the person to stop the distraction and use your recall word, treat, collar touch, release command.
Practice this back and forth a few times, with a few short sessions, over days or weeks as your dog needs. Then slowly increase the distance from the dog, then allowing the person with the dog to continue the engagement. Make sure that the person recalling the dog is always more appealing than whatever they are currently doing. This will show them that returning doesn’t mean the end of fun.
If at any time you find your dog isn’t reliably responding, it’s because they either don’t understand yet, or the reward you are offering isn’t motivating enough. Go back to a step in your training and repeat for a while.
When you feel your dog has a solid understanding you can begin to practice in the real world and I would recommend initially using of a long line for added security.
When you feel confident to let them off lead totally, it may be wise to have a few practices in a secure area, such as hiring a private field, to test these new skills.
Whistle recall.
Using a whistle can be a great aid for recall, it can be helpful on windy days, if you can’t quite find your voice, or if you dog is a quite a distance from you, it can also avoid any impatience or frustration that may creep into your voice, as a dog is unlikely to go near a person who appears angry.
Whistle recall needs to be well established to make it clear to the dog that you really want them to return immediately. This could be when there are incidents or scenarios that could put them, yourself, or others at risk.
Choose a ‘style’ of use for your whistle, whether you decide on two short blows or one long one for example, it should always be the same and used exactly by anyone who walks the dog.
Different whistles can have different tones, which can confuse the dog, so I would recommend always purchasing a number of the same one for everyone who walks the dog.
I coincide whistle training, by repeating the same training used with the word recall. I also use higher quality treats every single time a whistle is used, throughout a dog’s life.
To start whistle training, you need to build a positive association to the sound of the whistle.
Each of your training steps needs to be practised individually, moving on to the next step only when you are confident your dog has a good understanding.
When introducing a whistle use it gently at first, as your starting training task will be using it when they are right by your side, and you don’t want to alarm them. Always offer a high value treat immediately you use the whistle, then touch collar, release command. Do this a few times a day, at random times and in random places.
Never use the two together, word and whistle, as this will just confuse a dog to what they are supposed to respond too, or they may start to need both every time.
I generally just use word recall at the end of a walk, as they should be tired from exercise and easily happy to return.
A whistle recall I generally use when I feel a dog needs to be removed from an area with more urgency, and I always try to have an opportunity to release them again, when in a safe environment, otherwise the association with the whistle could just register as end of fun time for them. This is a skill that needs to be regularly practiced, rather than expecting reliability in a circumstance when you really need it.
If you need to keep them on lead, make it fun and exciting with a fun voice, some skipping along or even playing with a toy for a few moments, so being on the lead still has a positive association.
Equipment.
Treat pouch - preferable worn on a belt, so that you have immediate and uninterrupted access to the reward. Treats - I usually have standard biscuit/treat for verbal recall and very high-quality treats for whistle recall – there are many highly scented dried meat products available. Eventually, over time I just use praise and play for verbal recall and just keep treats for whistle recall. Whistle - any sort of whistle will do; I would recommend having it on a lanyard around your neck, so it is easily accessible immediately. I do not recommend a silent dog whistle. Long line lead - will add in some security while you practice in the real world.
If your dog is not used a long line, they will likely need support, as some dogs can be spooked by a long line dragging behind them. You will have to practice with it at home or in the garden at first, so they become comfortable with it.
DO NOT use a retractable lead as these always apply a certain amount of pressure and does not allow the dog the sense of being totally off lead.
Harness - dogs should wear a harness on walks, so they are comfortable and to prevent any discomfort or damage to your dog’s neck, a well fitted Y shaped harness is best. If this equipment is new to them, you may need a desensitisation program, so they are totally happy wearing one.
The real world.
The real world can offer lots of exciting distractions, so set yourselves up for success.
When starting training, initially pick your location or time carefully, so they are not too many distractions or obstructions for a loose line lead getting tangled, such as bushes or undergrowth.
When you arrive at the walk location, give them the release command, and drop the entire length of long line, whilst keeping hold of your end.
Don’t expect them to return 5 minutes into walk or when there is any other positive distraction.
Allowing dogs the freedom to enjoy the environment and perform natural behaviours, helps them to be calm and happy, and can prevent or alleviate any behavioural concerns.
Never use the long line to drag or haul your dog towards you or away from something. This can lead to them pulling when walking on a short lead, as well as causing frustration for both of you.
If they are off lead, try to resist chasing after them, as they will just think you are going along with them. If possible, run in the opposite direction using bright language and waving a treat.
Once you have managed to get their focus back on you, or them back on lead, praise and positively remove from the distraction and do not release them again until you are satisfied they will not return to that area.
Overall.
Recall will require lifelong learning and need to be practiced throughout your dog’s life, on most walks, to keep the skill knowledge reliable.
Most of your recalls should just be for practice. Add in the occasional clipping on lead or ravelling up of the lead and walking a few paces, before re-releasing them.
Make sure your dog is wearing ID and is microchipped, as this is a legal requirement whenever your dog is out in public, even if they are always on lead.
Never punish or reprimand if a recall has failed, as this last ‘act’ will be what your dog will remember and associate to.
Consider going back a few steps on training and just try again in a few weeks.
If at any time you feel you or your dog requires more specific focused support, I can be available for a 1 to 1 walks. I will visit you at home and walk with you in your usual or local area, offering support and guidance, with a follow up report and individual training/support plan.
Clare – Polite Pooches Essex – 07979 44 88 49
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